As I mentioned before, when you befriend someone at a hostel there's no telling where you might end up. Especially when that someone needs a place to live.
Jewels, my friend from
Little Beach, had recently moved to Maui. She is one of the bravest, most confident people I've ever met. Tired of the dirt, pollution, and crime in New York, she'd simply decided it was time to go, and off she went, just like that. The only things she'd brought were a few changes of clothes, a mandolin, and a burning sense of independence and determination. She'd been living at the
Banana Bungalow for about a week and had finally found a place to live. Some locals in town had told her about a place way out in the middle of nowhere called the The Chicken Shack. It was owned by an old hermit hippie who's only aspiration in life was to sit around and grow pot. I was a little skeptical, but it was her only option, and she seemed pretty excited about it. The problem was she didn't have a ride, and her new landlord's only advice was to hitchhike. So, donning my shiny silver rent-a-car armor, I set out to rescue the displaced damsel.
Our first challenge was actually figuring out how to get there. Jewels had been to the Chicken Shack once and could only remember small fractions of how to get there. We called the landlord, and he spat out a dizzyingly complex set of driving directions fast enough to get a speeding ticket. I asked if he could slow down, but he simply scoffed and hung up. We began our journey with what little bits of knowledge we could piece together. Start out on the Hana Highway, over a bridge, and turn left onto a dirt road just past the first fruit stand. We made it that far alright, but the minute we left the main road we were instantly lost. When you leave the well paved tourist highways in Hawaii, the dirt paths quickly become a maze of car-sickness inducing ruts more appropriate for a horse and buggy than a rented Cobalt.
At first our fruitless meandering was quite pleasant. We rumbled up and down small hills and curves, past odd and eccentric homes surrounded by colorful flowers and old Volkswagen Beetles that were once tie-dyed but now mostly rust. But as we got deeper into the outback and further from civilization, things began to get spooky. The jungle leaned in closer after every turn and drop. We were completely enclosed by trees and being funneled down a narrowing road with no hope of turning around and making an escape. This is exactly the way grizzly slasher movies start. A couple of dumb kids head out into the woods to find some pot party and wind up getting eaten by the deranged inbred chainsaw brothers. Know I knew why the chubby little man behind the car-rental counter had sternly warned me to NEVER take the car off the paved roads.
We nervously crept forward. Eventually we came to a bridge over a small creek. It looked a little shaky, but my real worry was the large toy horse brutally impaled on a wooden spike on the other side. I asked Jewels how quickly she thought I could navigate this road in reverse, but she was fairly certain this was the way, so we pressed on past the grisly totem. Suddenly the road wasn't even dirt anymore, just a crude path of crushed weeds and grass. I was about to begin an impossible 30 point turn when Jewels gave out a little squeal of relief. We pulled into a large sunny clearing and arrived at the Chicken Shack without running into a single bloodthirsty lunatic. I thought we were out of danger. Then we met the landlord.
The Chicken Shack, in all it's dilapidated gloryThe owner of the Chicken Shack was an unbelievably ancient and vile man. Tall and gaingly, he walked with his legs bowed out like a chaffing skeleton. He'd obviously abandoned all notions of personal hygiene sometime long ago. A thick layer of dirt filled in the deep lines of his face. Dozens of flies went undisturbed as they spun drunken circles in the terrible ripe odor oozing from him like hot tar and car exhaust. Large white spots marked the stringy blond hair scattered over his scalp and across his face. More uninviting than his outward traits was his personality. I was concentrating far too hard on controlling my gag reflex to pay much attention to his hazed and stuttering speech, but he seemed extremely skeptical about Jewels' ability to pay the rent every month. She'd already given him $500 to secure her room, and had plenty of money to live off of until she got on her feet, but he wanted more. Everything about him reeked of utter contempt and disrespect for everything, including himself. After an eternity of barely contained dry heaves, the landlord from the black lagoon shuffled away into his tiny hut at the edge of the property, muttering at us to go ahead and move in.
Gardens, and some unexplored dome thingThe Chicken Shack was a large two story house that had been divided into half a dozen or so apartments. These apartments, or at least the one Jewels would be staying in, were roughly the size of an airplane lavatory, but more foul. The entire room was just large enough for a bed, a dresser, and a closet that didn't have enough room for it's own doors. One large white room on the end of the house served as the kitchen, dining room, and living room combined. Large windows let the sun's heat in but not out, and the greenhouse-like effect was staggering. Outside, the house was surrounded by gardens that seemed to be doing well. Short rows of vegetables provided the house with most of its food. Dozens of the house's namesake birds wandered, clucked, and pecked unhindered throughout the property. The entire house shared two bathrooms, one for the boys and one for the girls. I noted that the girls bathroom didn't contain a bathtub or shower. When I pointed this out to Jewels she just giggled and then led me outside.
Yes, it's an outdoor shower. If you can't tell, click on the image to see it bigger
A small shower head was attached to a tree just outside the main entrance. Loofahs and bottles were hidden in the limbs and branches. As fascinated as I was by the idea of showering outdoors, I thought it was more than just a little convenient that only the women were expected to use it, and that the view of the shower from the landlord's bedroom window was obstructed only by the small forest of marijuana he had growing on his ledge.
We lugged all of Jewels' things to her new room, but suddenly realized something wasn't right. The dresser was full of clothes and there were dozens of posters on the walls. Jewels went and found the landlord. He sneered as he told her that the current guy wouldn't be out until tomorrow and she'd have to come back then. I couldn't believe it. The despicable old monster had had us waste our entire morning lost in the Hawaiian wilderness, then sat back and watched as we carried all of Jewels' things to the furthest corner of the house before telling us to pack it all back up and do this over again tomorrow. I wanted to scream at him but he completely ignored everything I said. He simply interrupted my tirade to demand I help him find his wallet which for some reason he'd thrown away earlier that morning. Disgusted and defeated, we drove away, wishing more than anything that there really were deranged chainsaw-wielding cannibals out in the woods, and that they were in the mood for something greasy.
-Miles